The Dirt Gardener's Column for July 3

Q. My Hydrangeas have stopped blooming and the leaves are turning brown, getting brittle and curling. They were beautiful three years ago. Is there something special I need to do in order for it to flower?

A. You have two unrelated problems. First, Hydrangeas fail to bloom when they’re pruned severely either in the winter or early spring. Hydrangeas bloom on the second year wood so only the spent and old flower stalks are pruned as close to the ground as possible. The old flowers can be removed anytime after they fade. The rest of the plant is then prune lightly to shape it. You would remove maybe a foot or two of the growth. The next flowering cycle comes off these stems. In your case, you’re removing the flowering growth; hence, no blooms. The remedy is to prune the plant more conservatively. Hydrangea leaves get brittle, brown and curl from water stress and/or sunburn. Those plants exposed to the afternoon sun will burn on those very hot days. It can also occur on those very warm mornings, especially if they’re in need of a watering. Mulching is suggested along with watering more frequently when the temperatures soar into the high 90’s and above. Another option is to cover the plants with Shade Cloth to protect the foliage. All you need to do is to throw it over the plants and it is removed when the temperatures cools down. In container, Hydrangeas should be watered daily. The good news is that the plants do recover. I’d pick off the worst of the leaves, fertilize and let the new growth cover over the damage.

Q. When do you use or not use saucers under plants in containers? Are there times when they’re not necessary?

A. Personally, I prefer not to use a saucer under my outdoor container plants. I want the excess water to drain or flow out the bottom of the containers. To help with the water flow, I’d lift the containers off the ground using spacers or those decorative ‘pot feet’ available at your favorite garden center. This helps preserves my deck by allowing air to circulate between the deck and containers drying the area out between watering. When staining is an issue, I’d use a clear piece of plastic or resin material, placed under the spacers or ‘pot feet’. Individuals living in condos or apartments have to use saucers to prevent the water from dripping on the neighbor’s below them. This can be challenging, as you need to be diligent in preventing them from over-flowing while at the same time getting the entire root ball wet. A turkey baser is very handy in removing the excess water. Today, water left in saucers is a concern, as they could become a breeding ground for mosquitoes, and West Nile Virus. Saucers are still recommended for indoors plants. Indoor plants are best watered in a sink and then returned to permanent home after they have drained.

by Buzz Bertolero, CCNP