The Dirt Gardener's Column for January 30

Q. We have several Bougainvillea plants and a trumpet vine that have been severely damaged by the frost. My husband wants to remove the unsightly and damaged foliage. I think we should wait for a couple of weeks I've also heard that this ugly-looking dead foliage may help protect the plants from further cold weather damage. What should we do?

A. With Bougainvilleas, Trumpet Vines, Hibiscus, any type of citrus and all other plants damaged by cold weather, now is not the time to prune. Although unsightly, the damaged tissue acts as an umbrella and protects the balance of the plant in case we receive any additional cold weather, as you have heard. You should wait to prune off the damage until after the danger of frost has passed. This could be mid-February along the coast to March 15th inland. Another option is to wait even longer for the flush of new spring growth. This tells you exactly how far you need to prune back. To encourage the new growth, I would make an application of a balance fertilizer in early March. This could be Miracle Gro, Dr. Earth All Purpose plant food or something similar. In the meantime, you can help protect the undamaged portion if we have another cold spell by making an application of Bonide Wilt Stop or Cloud Cover. The December frost was colder than we typically experience during the winter months, so it is very possible your plants and many others didn’t survive. It is too early to say for sure now. If you don’t see any signs of new growth between Easter and Mother’s Day, I would be inclined to replace them.

Q. I have a Dracaena marginata that has gotten very lanky. Would it develop side branches if I where to cut it back?

A. Dracaena marginata will develop shoots from the base or off a vertical bare stem when cut back. You can then discard this section or try to root it for an additional plant. The cut end is dip in a rooting hormone found at your favorite garden center and planted in moist potting soil. I’d trim the section so it’s no longer than four feet long. When it roots in eight weeks, you will have a mature plant. A second method is called Air Layering. Air Layering allows you to root the same section while it is still attached to the plant. You select a two to three inch area, score it with a knife, wrap it in moist sphagnum moss and cover the area with aluminum foil. In about six weeks the new roots should form. Any of these propagating techniques can be done at any time of the year. Another option is to add one or maybe two additional plants to the existing containers. You would select plants at different heights so when combined they eliminate the empty space with a tiered look. It is quite common for growers to produce multiple height Dracaenas’ growing in the same container.

by Buzz Bertolero, CCNP