Q. Why can't I plant tulips
in the Spring?
A. Spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils must
be planted in the fall or early winter to bloom in spring because they require
a long period of cool temperatures to spark the biochemical process that
causes them to flower. In fall, it's important to get them into the ground
before the Christmas. They need time to develop strong roots.
Q. It's February and I just
found a bag of bulbs that I forgot to plant. Do I save them till next
year?
A. No! If they are still firm and plump, plant them now.
Bulbs are living plants, not seeds they cannot wait, they will dry out. Either
chill them in the refrigerator for use indoors as forced bulbs or somehow
get them into the ground outside. Because they are so tough and contain a
full storehouse of food, your bulbs will try their best to bloom no matter
how late it is in the season. This is a case of "nothing ventured, nothing
gained." Chances are you may still get some results, even if you plant them
late.
Q. I have seen the same
variety of bulb priced very differently, some very cheap and others quite
expensive. What's the difference?
A. In the auctions in Holland, bulbs are gauged by their
caliber, or the measurement of the bulb's circumference. For each particular
variety: more mature bulbs are larger and yield bigger flowers. These demand
a higher price. For high-profile bed plantings, it's worth the higher price
for the more mature, showier bulbs. But younger (smaller caliber) bulbs,
which are often sold at lower prices, can offer a great way of adding color
to large areas or marginal areas of the yard where they can be left in place
to naturalize and mature, thus gaining in size over time.
note: for quality control reasons, the Dutch do not export bulbs below certain established calibers. For instance, tulips must be 10 cm or larger or the Dutch will not export them. This means that if you see tulip bulbs for sale that are smaller than 10 cm, they are notfrom Holland. In inches, that's about 4 inches around. No exceptions are allowed... except for species tulips, which are naturally sized smaller.
Q. I've been told to plant
bulbs in clusters -- why is this important?
A. Groups of bulbs make a much nicer show than individual
"soldiers marching single file." To create greater color impact in the garden,
plant clusters of same-color flowers together in blocks or "bouquets." Visually,
you get more "bang for the buck." One trick: try positioningsimilar bulbs
in atriangular planting pattern in the garden, with the point of the triangle
towards the front and the long leg towards the back. The result: it will
look as if you planted more flowers than you did. Generally, larger bulbs
should be planted 3 to 6 inches apart, smaller bulbs 1 to 2 inches
apart.
Q. Fall and winter weather
is often so erratic. What should I do if we get warm weather followed by
a cold snap and my bulbs are already "up"?
A. Nothing. Tulips and other spring-flowering bulbs are
tough. They can usually take what Mother Nature dishes out. When the weather
turns, don't dash outside to cover early-sprouting bulbs with extra "weather
protection." A short freeze won't do lasting damage to young bulb shoots
and buds, though it may "burn" already open blossoms. Many, such as snowdrops,
crocuses, and early rock garden narcissi are supposed to come up in very
early spring, even peeking through the snow. Mother Nature has provided them
with the means to survive. An unseasonably warm spell may cause some bulbs
to bloom earlier than anticipated, but in most cases won't result in
damage.
Q. How do I keep squirrels
from digging up bulbs?
A. Squirrels can be terrible pests! They won't bother daffodils
and other narcissi bulbs (which taste terrible to them!), but they find tulips
and crocus in particular to be worth the effort to sniff out and dig up.The
only sure-fire way to protect tulips and crocuses and other tasty bulb treats
from squirrels is to lay wire mesh such as chicken wire on top of the bed.
The squirrels can't dig through the mesh and the flowers will grow neatly
through the holes.Bulbs are most vulnerable in fall immediately after planting
when the soil is still soft and worked up. Digging then is easy! Squirrels
often "chance" upon bulbs when burying their nuts in soft ground. Or they
are attracted by "planting debris" such as bits of papery bulb tunics and
other bulb-scented bits from the bulb bags. Don't advertise your plantings
clean up and keep those squirrels guessing! Here's one neat trick that garden
writer Judy Glattstein has found to work: after planting new areas, lay old
window screens in frames on the ground, covering the newly-worked up soil.
The screen weighs enough to foil the squirrel, but allows for air circulation
and rainfall. Once the ground has settled, remove the screens and store for
future use.
Another remedy that some
find successful is to actually feed the squirrels during the fall and winter.
The theory is that the local squirrel population, when offered a handy plate
of peanuts or other easy-to-get treats will leave your bulbs alone. At the
White House, the gardeners put up six peanut-filled feeding boxes to satiate
the furry denizens there -- and reduced squirrel damage on bulb beds by 95
percent! Many gardeners claim success with commercial repellents, but these
are often sticky and unpleasant to deal with, or wash away in the rain.
Home remedies include
sowing cayenne pepper into the soil or on the bulbs before planting and
scattering moth ball flakes on the ground. You will find advocates and detractors
of both methods. A favorite Dutch remedy is to interplant Fritillaria
imperialis. This tall dramatic plant gives off an odor that squirrels
(and deer too, reportedly) find repellent. There is a book on the subject,
"Outwitting Squirrels," by Bill Adler, Jr. (1988 Chicago Review Press, Chicago,
IL). It's aimed at owners of bird feeders, but you may find some helpful
hints.
Q. How do I get my amaryllis
to bloom again next year.
A. After the flower fades, clip it off, leaving the green
foliage. Treat the plant like any other houseplant.Water regularly and fertilize
either with a slow release Osmocote which lasts several months, or a Fish
Emulsion administered 2 times per month.In mid-to-late summer, stop watering
and let the plant dry out. In the early fall, remove the bulb from the pot,
taking care not to damage the roots. Store the bulb in a cool (48° F
to 55°F), dark place for about 8 to 10 weeks. It is not necessary to
let the plant go dormant.At the end of the 8 to 10 week period the bulb is
ready to force into flower gain.Repot the bulb in a pot only slightly larger
in circumference than the bulb itself. Place it in a sunny spot and start
watering. When the plant begins to grow again, start the feeding program
again.
Q. Where can I buy the rare
black tulip?
A. Actually, black tulips are not rare -- black tulips
do not exist! What do exist are some very, very deep purple tulips, some
of which appear almost black. The search for the fabled black tulip has been
an epic quest for centuries.
In 1850 Alexander Dumasfamed
French author of The Count of Monte Cristo, The Three Musketeers and The
Man in the Iron Maskcaptured the popular fancy with The Black Tulip (now
with Oxford University Press), a romantic tale in which a fictional black
tulip figures in a love story laced with murder, torture, greed, dastardly
intrigue, and sudden surprises. Today, the lure
of a black tulip still attracts. Dutch hybridizers have achieved some very,
very deep purples. 'Queen of Night,' for example, is officially listed as
"deep velvety maroon" and is very, very dark in color. But achieving a true
black tulip, say the experts, is not possible (yet still worth the try!).
For a near-black experience also try: T. 'Burgundy' (deep purple-violet),
T. 'Black Parrot' (violet-black) or T. 'Black Diamond' (deep mahogany).
Q. How do I grow
spring-flowering bulbs in warm climates like the Bay Area?
A. It's possible to grow spring-flowering bulbs in climates
as warm as Zone 9 and Zone 10. However the blooming season is much earlier
than in cooler zones. Some spring-flowering bulbs recommended for can be
planted with no pre-cooling. Others will need a special cold treatment before
planting.
No pre-chilling needed:Amaryllis, Allium neapolitanum, Allium rosenbachianum, Anemone de Caen and Anemone St. Brigid, Brodiaea laxa, Crocus chrysanthus (snow crocus), Dutch iris, Freesia, Ixias, lilies, all narcissi/daffodils, Ornithogalum umbellatum, Ranunculus, Scilla campanulata (wood hyacinth), Sparaxis, Triteleia uniflora and Tritoni.
Pre-chilling needed: tulips, hyacinths,
Here are some Bay Area gardening tips:
Pre-chill the bulbs for a minimum of six to eight weeks in a refrigerator
at a temperature of around 40°F to 45°F (the temperature of most
home refrigerators). If you use a refrigerator, be sure not to store any
apples or other fruits alongside your bulbs. Ripening fruit naturally gives
off ethylene gas which will kill the
flower inside the bulbs.
...Don't worry if you bought the bulbs early in the season and need to store them for several months before planting. Keep them chilling -- even up to 16 weeks if necessary, until it is time to plant. Optimally, the bulbs should be put in the ground in December. Plant tulips about six to eight inches deep, water well and protect with a layer of mulch to retain moisture and protect from heat. When bulbs do not receive sufficient weeks of cold treatment, they bloom too close to the ground, on too-short stems.
Q. What should I do after
tulips fade in spring? What about daffodils?
A. After tulip flowers have faded, "dead-head" them by clipping
off the faded blooms so that they won't go to seed. Narcissi (daffodils)
do not require dead-heading,just leave as is. The main requirement for bulb
flowers in the post-bloom period is to leave the leaves alone so the plant
can put its energy into "recharging" its bulb for next spring's performance.
This "energy charge" is gained through photosynthesis as the plant uses the
sun's energy to turn basic elements such as oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorous
and potassium into food. This food is stored in the bulb's "scales," the
white fleshy part of the bulb, for use next spring.
It is necessary to leave the green
foliage exposed to the sun until it turns brown or six weeks have elapsed
since blooming. Fight the urge to trim back or constrain the leaves during
their die-back phase after looming. Don't bunch, tie, braid or cut bulb plant
leaves during this period. Dealing with the fading foliage is basically one
of those things that lovers of spring bulbs must deal with. The only management
tip is camouflage. Try interplanting bulbs with annuals or perennials, or
planting them strategically nearby so that the latter mask the declining
bulb foliage as best as possible. As a planting strategy, plant clumps of
bulbs instead of full beds. This way you will have a lovely spring show,
and plenty of room to plant camouflaging companions.
Q. How soon should I plant
my bulbs after I buy them?
A. Sometimes you will buy bulbs before you are ready to
plant in order to get the best selection. While it's always best to plant
your bulbs as soon after you receive them as possible, when you have to wait,
be sure to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Some people keep their bulbs in the refrigerator crisper drawer, taking care
to avoid storing them with ripening fruit. They should be fine for several
weeks even months if properly handled. But don't wait too long. Ideally,
you should plant six weeks or so prior to hard ground frosts in your area
to allow ample time for fall root development.
tip: the proper time to plant is when ground temperature is below 60°F at planting depth (while this is not easy for most of us to gauge, it gives you some notion of what's appropriate). The key: you must plant in fall to have blooms in spring. Even if planted late, bulbs will spring into action and try to start root growth. They are pre-programmed to grow and will do their best no matter how late you plant them.
Q. My tulips don't do well at all the second season of bloom. I've been told that lifting the bulbs, storing them for the summer and replanting them in the fall will improve their performance. Is this true? A. This old-fashioned method is difficult, yields mediocre results and is generally a lot ofbother. It is better to look for those tulips with a natural propensity for repeat performance. Botanical or species varieties and their hybridized strains are generally excellent garden performers and sometimes will even naturalize. Among hybrids, try: the red 'Charles', the pink-red 'Christmas Marvel', and the red 'Couleur Cardinal'. Triumph tulips such as the pink 'Don Quichotte', and lily-flowered 'Aladdin' and 'Ballade' should be good for more than one season. Others offering potential for a second season of color include tall Darwin hybrids such as yellow 'Golden Parade', red 'Oxford', and orange-red 'Hollands Glorie'. When "perennializing" or naturalizing tulips, plant them about eight inches deep and choose awell-drained spot in the yard.
Q. I've been told that the bigger the tulip bulb, the better the flower. Is this true? A. Not entirely. It is true, however, that, as a general rule, the bigger the tulip bulb the bigger the flower. But bigger does not necessarily mean better. The bulbs of a species tulip such as Tulipa tarda for example would appear quite tiny beside, say, a large Darwin Hybrid bulb such as "Apeldoorn." But these small species tulips are some of the most delicate and lovely bulb flowers you can grow. They're quite hardy as well. Tulip bulbs are sold by caliber or size. Within any particular type or variety of tulip, the larger bulbs will fetch a higher price than the smaller ones. For big showy displays, the larger caliber bulbs are certainly worth the price. However, some excellent bargains are to be had by buying lots of smaller caliber bulbs for brightening up a marginal spot in the spring yard.
Q. Do tulips prefer a sunny or a shady spot in the yard? A.Tulips are sun as well as shade lovers. But when planting your tulips this fall, don't be fooled by the patterns of sun and shade in the fall garden! Remember that come spring, when tulips bloom, all the deciduous, non-evergreen trees in your yard will be beautifully leafless. There's a lot of sun in a spring garden!
Q. What are "botanical" or "species" tulips? A. Species tulips refers to those varieties which have not been bred or hybridized and remain essentially as they are found in nature. Botanical tulips are hybrids, but hybrids which remain very close to the original species. Neither of these terms refers to "wild" tulips. All tulips sold by the Dutch, including the species and botanical tulips, are actually propagated and grown in Holland. Species and botanical tulips are generally smaller than other tulips. They are especially prized for growing in rock gardens.